There are nearly as many recipes for gumbo as there are Cajuns. A lot of ‘em are made with okra, but this gutsy, smoky-rich sans-okra version from Atlanta chef Ford Fry, is my favorite. Fry’s roux mixes Creole stylings (a lighter hued butter-flour roux) and Cajun traditions (roux made with lard or oil and flour and cooked to a deep, dark brown.) Put some music on and be patient–it takes a while for the flour and fat to brown to the deep hue that gives this gumbo its full flavor. Serve it over white rice with snipped scallions and Ford’s Potluck Garlic Bread. And any leftovers? They’ll taste even better next day. Cheaters note? When I can’t get to a duck, I’ve made this with chicken wings and legs and it turned out just fine!
