Veggielicious

Caponata

August 21, 2024

Delicious, easy-to-make, no-forks-required, healthy and beautiful: Caponata on baguette rounds hits all the marks, making it one of my favorite appetizers for entertaining. Silky with caramelized baby eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, onion and garlic plus the bright briny flavors of capers and olives, caponata can be served warm or cold.

I’ve used a variety of small eggplants when making this–Fairy Tale (pictured below,) Italian (also pictured below,) and Indian. All are good, but I especially like the stripey Fairy Tale which are sweet and very tender. If you can’t find the diminutive kinds, small Globe eggplants will also work.

 

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Summer Salads

Lobster & Avocado Salad

August 18, 2024

For a light summer lunch that’s elegant and satisfying, this salad is just what you’re looking for. A silky combination of lobster, avocado, butter lettuce and basil, with piquant hearts of palm and sweet red pepper for balance, this salad is a bright update of a recipe from the late great James Beard.  The creamy lemon dressing, given extra body by whipping with an immersion blender, is the perfect complement.

Be sure to use just-ripe, firm and unblemished avocados. Don’t open and slice them until the rest of the ingredients are prepped, and serve the salad immediately after making. Continue Reading…

Summer Salads

Easy Summer Succotash

August 18, 2024

Nothing says “summer” like sweet corn and tomatoes. In the Midwest, homegrown and farmer’s market options abound, letting you choose from a bevy of  tomato beauties, plus fresh from the field sweet corn.  This salad, with the cool crunch of jicama, protein of edamame and zesty lime dressing, is flavorful and easy as the long waning summer days. 

With a nod to historical precedents, we’ve dubbed it “succotash” ( from sahquttahhash, the Native American Narragansett word for “broken corn kernels”)  While early succotash versions were hot stews, ours only requires cooking the corn. We grilled ours, soaking the unhusked corn in water for several hours first, and then grilling until the husks blackened.  If you’re in a hurry, you can blanch the corn in boiling water for a few minutes instead.  Just be sure not to overcook the corn. Continue Reading…

Picnic Classics

Golden Fried Chicken

June 29, 2024

July 6th is National Fried Chicken Day, smack in the middle of the Fourth of July holiday weekend. That makes it the perfect time to share my favorite recipe for crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, fried chicken. I’ve seasoned it with garlic, onion and smoked paprika powders, plus a little cayenne for kick. But it’s the overnight soak in buttermilk that really enhances the flavor. For the soak, you’ll season eight pieces of chicken, and then cover them with buttermilk. I used thighs and drumsticks, but any of your favorite bone-in chicken cuts are fine. After the soak, you’ll whisk flour, seasonings and cornstarch together, coat the chicken, let it rest a bit, and then deep fry until crispy golden brown in peanut oil. It’ll take about 12 minutes for dark meat; 10 for white—but a meat thermometer is a good idea to ensure the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees for doneness. If you are making ahead of time and want to reheat, the air-fryer oven setting is great for keeping the coating crisp, but regular oven setting is good too. To round out the meal, this chicken goes great with my Favorite Old-Fashioned Potato salad, tomatoes, corn and watermelon. Happy 4th of July! Continue Reading…

American Classics

Favorite Old-Fashioned Potato Salad

June 29, 2024

There seem to be as many versions of potato salad out there as there are varieties of spuds! My husband likes a Mediterranean version I make with olive oil, lemon juice, parsley and pickled artichokes, and that’s a good one, but this old-fashioned classic is the tried-and-true crowd favorite.  

Because potatoes are the star, care in cooking them is key: To keep from bursting the potatoes’ cellular structure and ruining the texture, which happens with a hard boil, you’ll want to simmer them just below boiling until they are still slightly firm but easily pierceable by a fork. Once the potatoes reach this stage, I plunge them into an ice water bath to keep the internal heat from cooking them further.

With the potatoes cooked and chilling, I turn to the cutting board, chopping plenty of vegetables to add color and crunch. I use green and Spanish onions, pickled gherkins, parsley, pickled red peppers and minced garlic. For the sauce, I first blend unseasoned rice vinegar with Dijon mustard, a little sugar and yes, pickle juice!  That gets gently mixed in to the potatoes with sour cream and Hellman’s mayonnaise.

If you’re planning a picnic, this salad goes great with my buttermilk-marinated Golden Fried Chicken. Add some fresh fruit, tomatoes and corn and your menu is complete. Continue Reading…

Summertime

Meringue-Topped Strawberry Rhubarb Custard Slices

June 26, 2024

Rhubarb, that gorgeously deep-pink vegetable that is most often used as a fruit, keeps really well in the fridge. I learned this accidentally–nearly forgetting the bundle I brought home from the farmer’s market. Finding it while making room for just-picked strawberries, I knew this heirloom recipe would put it to good use.

With a custard filling, meringue topping and shortbread crust, this dessert blends best features of strawberry rhubarb pie and British rhubarb fool:  The rhubarb melts into the creamy filling but retains a nice tart tang, the meringue adds fluffy chew, and the crust doesn’t get soggy. Featured in the second edition of Ebenezer Lutheran Church’s “Desserts Through the Ages,” and given to me by my BFA’s mom (thanks, Mrs. B!) the recipe caption tells us it was Curt S.’s favorite from his mother’s dessert roster.  She made it with five cups of diced rhubarb, which is very good, but it also works very with the addition of fresh strawberries as in photos. Continue Reading…

Pie Revival

Summerberry Pie

June 6, 2024

Juneberry, Sugarplum, Shadblow, Saskatoon…there are many names around the U.S. and Canada for what we know in Illinois as the Serviceberry tree. We planted ours to beautify the landscape 24 years ago and were delighted to learn that the pretty red berries are edible, with a flavor profile similar to blueberries (but more redberry-ish) and even higher in protein, dietary fiber, calcium, magnesium & manganese. No wonder Native Americans used them to make pemmican!

This year, I used the berries in combination with raspberries, blackberries and blueberries to make this fabulous summer berry pie. You can alter the berry-to-berry ratio, just be sure to use fewer blueberries than the other types of berry, and you will still need about 7 cups of fruit which should mound up nicely in your 9-inch, deep-dish pie plate. While American farms don’t grow serviceberries for sale, they are available frozen from Canada. To make a pie with just serviceberries, here is that recipe.
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St. Patrick's Day

Ballymaloe Irish Lamb Stew

March 16, 2024

Cherished recipes are like ripples, each one an echo of the wave-maker that first broke the surface. This Ballymaloe House lamb stew is the 1940s original that started ripples of stews to follow. A version of it was later published in Gourmet magazine (1960s) and then again in Ruth Reichl’s 2004-published volume featuring six-decades of Gourmet recipe bests. Rather than look to the later versions, when a woman wrote me in search of the recipe, I reached out to Darina Allen, head of the Ballymaloe Cookery School in Shanagarry, County Cork, Ireland, and a member of the family running Ballymaloe House Hotel and Restaurant.

According to Darina, the simple, hearty recipe was given to her mother-in-law Myrtle Allen by neighbor Madge Dolan in the 1940s. It became a staple at both Ballymaloe House and at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. While lamb stew is extremely common in Ireland with regional variations from county to county, (no carrots in Northern Ireland; barley added for extra sustenance in other places,) this version differed from others of the period because the meat and vegetables are browned in hot fat before stewing, making the finished dish more flavorful. It’s a very simple and straightforward recipe—the love you add comes with peeling all those tiny potatoes and pearl onions (!) The stew is delicious served up right after you make it and is also good warmed up the next day. And for another St. Patrick’s Day dish, try our Colcannon, and if you’ve got corned beef leftovers, Corned Beef Hash!

 

Lovely Lamb

Somali-style Lamb Shanks with Seasoned Rice

January 30, 2024

One of my boys went to school in Minneapolis where there is a large Somali population. He fell in love with a lamb dish they did at a restaurant there, and we’ve been replicating versions of it at home ever since. From our various renditions, we think this recipe is best!  It’s made with lamb shanks slow roasted in a fabulous blend of spices and paired with seasoned rice. Continue Reading…

Holiday!

Deep Dish Cranberry Apple Pie

November 18, 2023

This bright gem of a fruit pie perfectly balances sweet and tart. Cranberries and apples nestle together in lovely symbiosis:  The apples turn pink from the deep red of the berries. And the berries become less sharp, mellowed by the sweetness of the apples. Enhancing both, the pie is seasoned with fresh orange zest and juice, and seasoned with nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon. Continue Reading…