Soup Kitchen

Chicken Consomme with Marrow Dumplings

December 6, 2016

While the chicken soup I grew up with was a hearty rustic version, friends of mine have sung the praises of more delicate matzo ball and other dumpling soups, where the flavor of the vegetables and chicken is concentrated in a rich broth.  I found this lovely example in a handwritten cookbook from the 1890s that a friend loaned me. Continue Reading…

Cookie Kitchen

Orange Dips

December 6, 2016

In 1961, these light, fresh-orange-and-sugar-glazed, tea cookies won Jo Ryman Scott the first-ever bake-off at Fairbanks, Alaska’s Tanana Valley State Fair, making her Grand Champion. Scott brought the family recipe–for which she credits Pauline Angerhofer—to Alaska with her from South Dakota in 1953. I visited her there in Fairbanks to learn about the cookies and her other Tanana Valley fair exploits. Continue Reading…

Baked Treats

Coffee & Molasses Dream Bars

November 29, 2016

Richly flavored with molasses, strong coffee and a generous portion of ground cloves, these bars are one of my favorite holiday baking treats. They’re adapted from a recipe originally published 33 years ago in a community cookbook from Ladies Aid at Zion Evangelical Lutheran Church in South Milwaukee, WI. Slather the coffee icing on while the bars are still warm. Continue Reading…

Pie Revival

Spiced Butternut Squash Pie & Southern Sweet Potato Pie

November 22, 2016

Ever since a food blogger published an article early this fall talking about her shock and horror at discovering that Libby’s canned pumpkin was in fact, squash, Libby’s has been inundated with questions from panicked pumpkin pie bakers. Turns out the whole kafuffle was one of preferred parlance: The word ‘pumpkin” has no biological or scientific meaning. Part of the cucurbita genus, “pumpkins” can legitimately be called squash, pumpkin or gourd depending on where you happen to live. To help abate the canned pumpkin panic: Libby’s “pumpkin” is packed from their pale-skinned, proprietary Dickinson cucurbita cultivar. So no worries, people. On the home-made front? Lost Recipes Found did its own experiments years ago and found little difference Continue Reading…

Thanksgiving

Herb & Sausage Stuffing

November 21, 2016

The scent of toasting bread cubes, sausage in the skillet and fresh snipped sage make Thanksgiving morning warm and toasty. This stuffing has so many good things: nubbins of onion and celery, crumbled sausage and plenty of herbs… forever the stuff of my poultry-pairing dreams. I like to include a cup of diced mushrooms, but if you’re not a mushroom fan, it’s optional.

My mom used to include plumped raisins and giblets in the mix, but I like it without. And  prepackaged stuffing mix is never as good. Toast the bread cubes yourself! It’s cheap and easy and the aroma is heavenly. Continue Reading…

Cake Walk

Persimmon Spice Cake with Caramel Frosting

November 10, 2016

For anybody unfamiliar with the pretty orange fruits, American persimmons are native, highly-nutritious and were prized by American Indians and early settlers. They also make a fabulous cake! A few years back, I went on a Fall jaunt to persimmon-expert Jerry Lehman’s 85-acre orchard in southwestern Vigo County, Indiana, to experience these fruits first hand.

Right out of the car, I learned that what looks ripe on the tree, may not be ready to eat: Bite into an unripe American persimmon and the tannins make your mouth feel as if you’re chewing on a cross between aspirin, alum, and chalk. But ripened till they’re very, very soft–a process called “bletting,” persimmons have a beautiful, caramel sweetness all their own. (Tip: you may find piles of what look like “gone bad” persimmons on the “reduced for quick sale” racks at the grocery, but they’re probably not bad at all! The deeper the orange and the softer the fruit the better.)

At Jerry’s orchard, I learned that the fruits are allowed to fully ripen on the tree until they drop to the ground, to be carefully plucked up by harvesters making their way along the tree rows  Research from Slow Food USA (which includes the American persimmon in its Ark of Taste) shows that American Indians mixed the fruit with corn meal and acorns to make breads and soups. African Americans used the pulp to make sweet puddings, candy, and cakes. Early settlers roasted the seeds to make something like coffee.  And Appalachians brewed dried persimmon seeds into a kind of beer.

While you can find wild American persimmon trees from Connecticut to Florida and as far west as Texas, the bulk of persimmon production in the United States has centered in Indiana. There a woman named Dymple Green commercially canned American persimmon marketed as a product called “Dymple’s Delight.” We adapted this recipe from a little booklet Dymple put together in the ’70s featuring persimmon puddings, breads, candies and cakes. I think the caramel icing perfectly highlights the already-caramel-ly overtones of the ripe fruit. If you can’t find local persimmons, the larger Fuyu or Hachiya varieties will also work. Note: While Fuyu’s are non-astringent, and can be eaten when firm, for this recipe, you will want them to be well-ripened and soft.

Persimmon Spice Cake with Caramel Icing
Serves 10
Cinnamon & nutmeg spiced cake with caramel-ly persimmon and caramel icing. Perfect fall dessert
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Ingredients
  1. Persimmon Pulp
  2. 2 cups, store bought, or 2 cups made from 10 to 12 very ripe American persimmons, or 2 cups made from 6 to 8 of the larger, Asian, persimmon
  3. Persimmon Spice Cake Ingredients
  4. 2 cups sugar
  5. 1 cup vegetable oil (grapeseed, canola or corn work well)
  6. 4 eggs, beaten well
  7. 2 cups persimmon pulp
  8. 3 cups all-purpose flour
  9. 2 tsp each baking powder and baking soda
  10. 1 tsp each salt, cinnamon and freshly-grated nutmeg
  11. Caramel Icing Ingredients
  12. 1 stick butter
  13. 1 cup brown sugar, packed
  14. 1/4 tsp salt
  15. 1/4 cup milk
  16. 2 cups powdered sugar
  17. 1/2 tsp vanilla
Instructions
  1. Make persimmon pulp: Place persimmons in a colander or large strainer. Wash with plenty of cold, clear water. Repeat. Remove stems and leaves. Place persimmons in a food mill, or large fine-mesh strainer. Process through the mill, or, using a pestle, press the persimmons until all of the pulp is extracted through the sides of the strainer, leaving the seeds and skin behind. OR Peel the persimmons and use an immersion blender or food processor to blend the fruit until smooth. You should have at least two cups of persimmon pulp.
  2. Make cake: Cream sugar, oil, eggs and persimmon together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Sift together dry ingredients and add in two batches to the wet ingredients, stirring until no flour streaks remain. Spray non-stick spray on two nine-inch cake pans and line with parchment paper. Pour batter into pans. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes at 350 degrees. Cool cakes in pans on racks for 15 minutes. Remove cakes to racks.
  3. Make caramel frosting: Melt butter in large saucepan. Blend in brown sugar and salt. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring continually. Add milk and continue stirring until mixture heats to boiling. Remove from heat. Gradually whisk in powdered sugar, adding vanilla at the end and whisking one more time. Ice cake immediately as caramel frosting will “set up” and begin to harden.
Notes
  1. Patience! let store-bought persimmons ripen a good, long while– a process called “bletting”–until they are completely soft and almost appear over-ripe. At this stage, they’ll have an unctuous velvety sweetness with caramel overtones.
Lost Recipes Found https://www.lostrecipesfound.com/

Gone But Not Forgotten

Zwiebelfleisch (Red Star Inn)

November 2, 2016

The road to recreating lost recipes can be winding–not always leading where you expected it to go. The search for the Red Star Inn’s zwiebelfleisch (onion beef roast) recipe is our latest best example of that. After lots of sleuthing and interviews, I got the recipe–but turns out it’s really sauerbraten in disguise : ) It’s truly a special-occasion dish, though, and very delicious.  Here’s the story of the search… Continue Reading…

Cake Walk

German Chocolate Cake (Marshall Field’s)

November 2, 2016

It’s tall. It’s magnificent. It’s the quintessential German Chocolate Cake: Four layers with classic coconut pecan filling. This cake’s tender crumb results from the combination of low-protein flour (cake flour) and a little acid (buttermilk.) And the filling is made from scratch with butter, evaporated milk, lots of egg yolks,  sugar and plenty of coconut and toasted pecans.  (None of the sweetened condensed milk shortcuts here!) While the recipe is for one, 4-layer cake, you can share the love (give one away?) by making this recipe into two, two-layer cakes. It is rich, so pace yourselves: one recipe of the filling includes 8 egg yolks, 2 cups butter and 3 cups coconut…. Continue Reading…

Vintage Veg

Jalapeno Creamed Spinach

November 2, 2016

Creamed spinach–Texas style! Sans canned-creamed-soup and minus the processed cheese, this is a gourmet side dish worthy of birthday dinners and holiday feasts. The pickled jalapeno adds a lot to the flavor–one of my boys begs for it : ) Continue Reading…

Breakfast Buns

Gluten-Free Cinnamon Rolls

October 24, 2016

America’s love affair with cinnamon rolls is alive and well. Cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, coffee cakes…I’ve featured recipes for all of these by request. But lately I’ve had more queries, well, “pleas” is probably more accurate–for a good, old-fashioned-tasting, gluten free version. Continue Reading…